We are of course looking towards New Years Eve as well, Christmas seems to also involve fireworks, as do weddings, and yes, even funerals (going off with a bang, as they say)

But what about our poor old dogs in all of this? They must think they are going insane with all the flashes, bangs and whizzes going on. Not good at all.

Time for us to take things in hand and paw, and let’s help our dogs deal with firework fear!

Listen to the WildPaw podcast – a special edition sponsored by the brilliant Dorwest Herbs www.dorwest.com

Listen to the podcast here:

or subscribe on iTunes.

You can also download the show here.

You can access the site www.dogsandfireworks.com for all the downloads mentioned in the podcast, too.
Please don’t forget to donate to Dogs Trust if you decide to download; the link is on the site above.

Also thanks to our other sponsors: Brentwood Dog Walker, Collarways and Complete Canine Care.

Listen to the interview here:

or subscribe on iTunes.

You can also download the show here.

Nicole’s book on Separation Anxiety ‘Don’t Leave Me’ can be ordered online here:

Don’t Leave Me (order within the UK)

Don’t Leave Me (order within the US)

About Nicole:

Nicole Wilde, CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer) is the author of nine books, writes columns and articles for various magazines and newspapers including Modern Dog Magazine, and has hosted the Dog Talk radio show. She co-stars in the DVD Train Your Dog: The Positive Gentle Method and guest stars on The Dog Whisperer (with Paul Owens) DVD.  Nicole is on the Advisory Board of the Companion Animal Sciences Institute, an accredited distance learning college that provides certificate courses and diploma programs of study in professional dog training, behaviour consulting, fitness and nutritional sciences. She is a professional member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) and a popular speaker at their national conferences. Nicole also teaches seminars and workshops around the country and internationally.

You can find Nicole on Facebook at NicoleWildeAuthor, follow her on Twitter @NicoleWilde and read the brilliant Wilde About Dogs blog

Multi-dog households can be a pleasure and a curse. I absolutely love watching my dogs playing together, and we have a lot of visiting dogs too. It’s a lot of fun. Nevertheless I am very careful when it comes to compatibility and temperament. This week’s topic was inspired by a question I got from a podcast listener, Rosie P “We have a 14 wk red lab (Madison) but our 6 yr old yorkie (Harvey) is really jealous + goes for her. Especially if we tell the lab off. help?”

Listen to the podcast HERE

or subscribe on iTunes

You can also download the show here.

Dogs together can get along fine – in fact I try to take the view that there is no reason why they wouldn’t. Nevertheless at work I am asked to sort out doggy problems that stem from multi dog households.

Should I get another dog?

You must ask yourself the following question first. ‘Why do I want another dog?’

Is your existing dog lonely? Bear in mind that separation anxiety may not be cured by getting another dog, since your dog may well be missing you, and only you. In other words, a new dog may end up missing you as well, but the dogs may not be comforted by each other. That’s how separation bonds seem to work. Is your current dog really overexcitable and perhaps you are hoping that a new dog will calm your existing one down? They might. However, it might be that as you have not really got to grips with your current dog’s behaviour, you will then end up with TWO very unruly dogs.

Don’t ever, ever get another dog to try and sort the other dog’s problems out without professional advice from a qualified trainer or behaviourist. In my experience it can easily send you from one problem to two big bad ones (or worse), because the dogs interact as well and can learn all sorts of things from each other.

Will the dogs get along?

Dogs are social creatures – they can get on but then again, they may not get on. I am a strong believer in dogs generally wanting to get along and peacefully co-exist. However, I do see a number of cases in my behaviour work indicating that not every dog wants another dog muscling in on all their resources. Comfort, attention, locations are not always wanting to be shared. Bear this in mind. If you do get a new puppy, be aware that the older dog may not exactly be feeling ‘jealous’ but they certainly may not appreciate suddenly having all their best things limited or shared.

Is it much extra work?

Yes, two dogs (or more) is in my opinion a lot more work than one dog. Exponentially more work! You might think that you are just adding to a bit to the food bill. Think again. Dogs form relationships with each other as well, so what was a fairly simple family relationship with one dog suddenly adds in a whole number of new interactions. Often, one dog’s behaviour will spark off another. Be ready to deal with that by teaching each dog separately.

Practical considerations

This is what most people are really good at, but nevertheless you need to make certain you have made provision for things like:

• Kennelling or other care whilst you are on holiday. Be aware that some holiday places will allow one dog but not more than one.
• Vet treatments – regular ones, such as vaccinations, flea and worming treatments, but also those unexpected Vet bills that can really set you back.
• Insurance – This is quite pricey for one dog and you may get discounts for additional dogs within the household. Nevertheless in my experience many owners of more than one dog simply feel that they cannot afford the premiums. You should always make sure your dog is covered by at least third party insurance in case they cause an accident.
• Microchipping – This is a one off cost, but essential!
• And finally, and most importantly in my view, TRAINING! And the training has to be done SEPARATELY…(at least, at first).

Often if there is a problem with more than one dog it is likely they are setting each other off and escalating the situation. Owners do not look forward to the prospect of having to take the dogs out separately to teach them. Nevertheless, trying to train several untrained dogs in one go is rather like as Lord Alan Sugar (from The Apprentice) is fond of saying ‘Trying to nail jelly to a wall’. Or better described by my Mum’s favourite saying ‘Trying to put an Octopus into a string bag’…or even ‘Trying to catch a greased pig…’ (don’t ask!)

In other words, it is not easy at all. It is far more effective to train one dog, then train the next one, then train them together. This way you can really keep an eye on reliability and most of all that age-old standby of the trainer: ‘Be consistent’.

What about a new puppy and an older dog?

Try and make sure that whilst the new puppy gets time to play with the older dog, the older dog needs time to themselves, too. Don’t rely on your other dog or dogs to be the only ones that teach puppy the life lessons it needs. It can put a lot of strain on the older dog. Take your puppy out and mix it with other, nice adult dogs of all shapes and sizes. Give the older dog time to play separately with his or her normal buddies, too. And most of all, give each dog some quality time alone with you and your family.

Consult help from an expert

Never be afraid to ask for help. Act before things escalate or get to the point where your dogs are actually fighting regularly. You may witness the occasional skirmish, but any real signs of a fight – call a qualified accredited behaviourist – try www.APBC.org.uk for example. It is sometimes easier to get an outsiders view, and not a friend or family member. Paid-for advice is independent and valuable because that person is an expert in their profession.

You can catch more of this discussion by listening in to the WildPaw podcast, the link is at the top of this page.

If you have other problems with your dog you would like addressed, contact Karen Wild, behaviourist and trainer, on podcast@intellidogs.com or why not take a look at our back catalogue, accessible on The WildPaw Dog Blog

Comments are always welcome – let us know about your dogs below!

Karen x

Listen to the ‘Vet Visit’ podcast, complete with up to date news and chat from Karen Wild and Jon Buscall

How your dog sees the Vet

What happens when they get to the Vet surgery? There is the smell of various animals your dog might like to chase, plus any accompanying fear that goes along with poorly animals. There is noise, they have to be handled by people they do not know very well, and to top it all, your dog may be ill or in pain.

Aggressive behaviour at the Vet

It is natural for a dog that is feeling fearful to show aggression. Don’t be horrified if they do. Don’t ignore it, either. Be open and honest with the Vet and nurses that your dog is feeling under pressure. Ask them to take a little time, perhaps examine your dog in a more open space outside if they can. If it is suggested that your dog wears a muzzle, this is not a criticism. It is simply to prevent injury.

What if dog has a problem being handled?

What do you do as an owner or what can the vet do? Firstly, go back to basics. Teach your dog to enjoy being touched and handled all over their body, using a tasty titbit. Start at home, with the person the dog likes the most. Place the dog on a non-slippy surface on a table (a bathmat works well). Give the dog plenty of happy fuss and treats. Your aim is to de-sensitise the dog to the whole process.

Gradually take your time to become a little more ‘invasive’ with your handling, as long as the dog is calm and happy. Mimic things that a Vet may need to do. Get other people to do the same process, beginning at the first stages above. If the dog appears stressed or worried, and especially if they refuse to eat, you have taken things too far, too soon. Go back a few stages until your dog relaxes, perhaps after a couple of days break.

Your next stage is to begin social visits to the vet surgery. Call your Vet and ask if you can begin to do this at quiet times. Remember that a relaxed happy dog is easier to examine and treat, so this will help the Vet and nurses, too.

Never underestimate the time you will need to accustom your dog to this process. You really do need to take plenty of time and be very gradual in your progression.

Visiting the Vet

Once you reach the actual Vet visit, your dog should be reasonably comfortable with being handled. They will be familiar with the place, the sounds and smells. Even then, take plenty of nice food with you and ask the Vet nurses or receptionist to toss some treats to your dog.

If possible they should avoid bending over the dog, as your dog may easily feel threatened. Imagine if you went to a party and someone you didn’t know yelled ‘Hello!’, then threw their arms around you or worse still then tried to stuff a canape in your mouth…? Do not allow patting or over-handling if your dog is showing signs of stress such as licking or moving away.

Try and chat with the staff a little at first so your dog can hear your normal happy tone of voice. The Vet can also greet the dog by throwing a few treats down to the dog!

When you book the visit, ask the receptionist for a quiet time of their day. Set the appointment for early morning or early afternoon – at the start of a clinic in case they run late for example.

Other tips on Vet visits to help your dog

You could leave your dog in your car with someone, until you are ready if the surgery is busy. This way you can go straight in if you KNOW your dog is going to be stressed or go manic at all the other animals in the waiting room (cats and rabbits dont want to be barked at either!)

Stay with the dog if you can – but if the vet asks you to leave, ask why if you like, but be prepared to leave rapidly if it is an emergency. It might be that they just need the space to help your dog properly.

Lastly, do not feel bad if your dog behaves badly. Note it down to experience and practice more next time. Dogs can and do enjoy Vet visits, so make this a regular part of their training.

Photo: Bjarwick

Firstly, thank you to @crazzledazzle99: (Chris) who asked the question “Hi any tips on how to stop my rather manic dogs jumping up at everyone who comes in, including me!”

Listen to the WildPaw podcast with Karen Wild and Jon Buscall – This week – Stop your Dog Jumping Up!

Direct download
 

At any event in the humdrum of everyday life, it is normal for a dog or puppy to become excited and jump up to greet a visitor. The scenario is all too common!
You are trying to let the visitor in. You are trying to open the door (and not let dogs out in the process). In the midst of all this you may even have your visitor saying ‘Oh it’s ok – I love dogs’ and actively encouraging the dogs to leap about. All very well for them perhaps, but the next visitor might be someone who is not keen. Or it may be you, dressed up and ready to go out!

Puppies are of course very hard to resist. It’s easy to ignore when the dog is cute, fluffy and tiny. We all know in our hearts that dogs do not stay puppies forever. In less than a few months they are angular, elbowing adolescents.

So – we have gone from a fluffy puppy (or, ‘fluppy’ as I call it) that jumps up to an adolescent dog that jumps up and smothers you in love. And dog hair. And doggy drool.

How to stop your dog jumping up!

Here are 5 tips, but you can download plenty more with my complete essential guide ‘Stop your dog jumping up’ here for only £2.99

1) Physical measures: Close a connecting door, use a lead or houseline, or get a stairgate across your hallway.
These are training measures – not permanent ones. First of all you have to stop rewarding the dog for doing it. It is a little unfair to ask your visitors to deal with it all alone! Only allow the dog to be greeted (or greet) when they are calm. If they go crazy again, keep them on lead or houseline until they calm down.

2) Teach door manners! How many of ours dogs go crazy around the door when it’s time for a walk? The trigger is the door opening (if not the lead beforehand). Teach the dog that they always stay calm around the door or – nothing happens. No walk. No door opens. No freedom, no social event! (More detail on door manners training is included within my guide here).

3) Teach the ‘off’ command. ‘Off’ means back away and wait. The reward comes to you! There is a video of this on my website and a handout on how to teach it.

4) Teach a ‘placement cue’ – this is where you associate the doorbell or a knock at the door with ‘go to your bed’. Or place a mat in a corner of the hallway and teach dog to go there. They can sit on it, lie down, anything you choose but they HAVE to be there or the door simply will not open.

5) Practice, practice, practice. Get the same visitor to come in, go out the back door, go round, come in the front door… etc.

Jumping up can be tackled in a very straightforward way and I have written a special handout for this, which includes the ‘off’ training. It is on my website, it is only £2.99 and has plenty of detail and support -and of course you can always ask me! www.twitter.com/wildpaw

Wave bye bye to Tigger the bouncing nutcase and greet your dog calmly and happily like you’ve always longed for.

Karen x

It’s a good idea to treat dog anxiety as soon as you can. Why? An anxious dog does not usually just ‘get better’. Often the separation anxiety will worsen to the point where the dog can become very distressed, barking, and causing destruction in the home. Neighbours may complain about your dog, and you may find doors damaged and floors ripped up as your dog becomes desperate.

So, how to treat separation anxiety? How to help your dog? And more importantly, how to make an unhappy and distressed dog feel calm and even happy when you are not there.

In this WildPaw podcast, Karen and Jon discuss the needs of the anxious dog, ways to help the dog learn to be left alone and to help calm the dog.

Listen to the Podcast with Karen Wild and Jon Buscall here:

or Subscribe on iTunes

In this weeks exclusive podcast, Karen and Jon discuss the problem of dogs that won’t come back. What to do, how to tackle it, and easy tips to sort the problem once and for all. Are you ready? Then listen in now!

WARNING – your dog recall problems are in danger of being solved!

Listen to the WildPaw podcast, with dog expert Karen Wild and Jon Buscall, here:

or Subscribe on iTunes

Want to read more? Want to try it for yourself in more detail?

Karen has produced a mini e-book available here:

Her methods characterise the practical, no-nonsense and fastest ways to help counter those everyday dog problems. No hefty training regime and no elitist terminology, Karen spends every day teaching families and dogs how to work together and this mini-book personifies that approach. Start helping yourself and your dog to a better walk, today! Go to e-book to find out more

In this weeks exclusive podcast, Karen reveals her original, simple and fully tried and tested method to stop those lead problems once and for all. It really works. For listeners, Karen’s advice to Jon during this podcast has led to him commenting “the lead training tips worked within TWO days. The pups are awesome on the lead now.”

Listen to the WildPaw podcast, with dog expert Karen Wild and Jon Buscall, here:

or Subscribe on iTunes

Want to read more? Want to try it for yourself in more detail?

Karen has produced a mini e-book available here:

‘Walking on Lead’ for only £2.99

Her methods characterise the practical, no-nonsense and fastest ways to help counter those everyday dog problems. No hefty training regime and no elitist terminology, Karen spends every day teaching families and dogs how to work together and this mini-book personifies that approach. Start helping yourself and your dog to a better walk, today! Go to e-book to find out more

Here is one of Karen’s clients telling us about her experiences;

Walking with my girls used to be the best part about being a dog owner, but after some bad experiences for both me and my dogs things started to get a bit more difficult, and something that once was a joy, soon turned into a nightmare, and after some misguided training tips things just got worse. Until I got pointed in the direction of Karen, I had almost lost hope. And even after our first session she helped build my confidence and helped make it all seam a lot less overwhelming, and helped me see I needed to start with the basics and build up to the more tricky things. So we started working on getting Garbo to walk nicely without dragging me everywhere. And it’s been amazing how quickly we’ve managed to get her walking along nicely next to me. In such a simple way, but getting her to keep her focus on me, and my feet. As you can see in the little video I took. So when I change speed or stop she’s still right there next to me. And we’re now ready to calmly take the next step in our road to happy walks, and not get rudely dragged into more trouble.

First of all, sit down and slow down. Dogs pick up on your signals, so if you are stressed out, that won’t help.

Too much to do?

• The Dog - Is the dog tired? Puppies often seem to get more mouthy and frantic when they need a good nap. This can happen especially if you have a busy home or at busy family events which will tire your dog out more quickly. So, don’t be afraid to give them a quiet place to sleep when you spot the first signs (usually a child yelling that the puppy is hanging off their trousers or sleeves). A crate is good, or a quiet corner, or use a houseline to keep puppy near you and near their bed. This is not ‘punishment’ as such, although it is ‘time out’. Why leave your dog making mischief and learning all the attention for unwanted behaviour lessons that go along with it?

• You - Well, it could be that you are just plain tired. A client of mine rang me the other day saying she could no longer cope with her young dog due to his behaviour. It turned out after we had had a nice chat, that the poor lady had had very little sleep as she has young children. She is a terrific parent and has been very succesful in training her puppy so far. Nevertheless, a setback had really knocked her for six. It’s not as obvious as it sounds. My job sometimes involves feeding back what I am hearing to give an owner a bit of an outside view. In this case, she was tired out and the puppy’s normally bouncy antics were just too much on that day. The cure? Give it a couple of days and bring back the household controls such as a houseline and regular naps – for you and the dog too. You could even ask family, or a neighbour, or doggy day care just to take the dog for the day while you get things back within your comfort zone. It works!

Not enough to do?

Well, yes, opposite of the above, and more common in older dogs in my experience. The old saying goes, ‘a tired dog is a good dog’ (note: not an ‘overtired’ dog – see above, and make sure your dog doesn’t have hip or back problems!). Here are your essentials:

• How easy is it for your dog to get their dinner? Really easy? In a bowl, lasts two seconds? Make them work for it with a treat ball, pyramid or tug-a-jug toy. On a budget? Consider scatter-feeding by sprinkling your dog’s food in the garden to make them hunt for their food. Or, hide it in small mounds. There is no law in the dog world that states ‘Food shalt be served in a bowl’. Your dog has a highly developed nose and often an excellent hunting instinct. Get them to use it.

• Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise. A half hour spin around the block is not really enough. Two walks a day, please, if you find your dog is being a bit of a nightmare. If you can’t do that yourself, get a dog walker to help you.

Having problems with this? Bad dog day every day?

Well, if people like you didn’t exist I would not be as busy doing my job as I am, so first of all pat yourself on the back and say ‘Welcome to the human dog-owning race’. Lots and lots of people are in exactly the same situation as you, and I am here to help if I can.

It might be that your dog barks at other dogs. You can find free help on that subject here on this blog in several places: Help! My dog barks and Dog-dog aggression.

Dog won’t come back? Does this mean you can’t take it off lead to exercise it properly? You could download my mini-books ‘Rock Solid Recall’ or ‘Stop your dog Running Away’ (choose the adolescent dog tab)

Maybe your dog is pulling you on its lead. Again, there’s a mini-book ‘Stop your dog pulling on the lead’ on this very site that will help you with fast, non-gimmicky results. If that isn’t for you, get someone in to give you tailored advice – it doesn’t have to be me! Consult a qualified expert for proper help.

So, next time you are pulling your hair out, don’t go for a hair of the dog (it’s a drink, folks). Take a deep breath, assess what you can do, take the advice above – and above all, think  ‘In six months, it will all be very different’.